With the economy sinking faster than a Led Zeppelin (that’s how the band got their name by the way – when Keith Moon was asked to assess the new bands chances for success he likened it to said very heavy dirigible) the traditional act of dining out may be one of the first cuts to the family budget in many households.
So when we do decide to roll that discretionary income dice and eat out, what kind of experience will we be looking for? Will it be the Friday night at Chili’s or something special, a nice meal out where you might put on a sport jacket and act like an adult?
And for those of us that have dined at Chez Wonderfully Expensive you may notice that many of these traditional establishments adhere to traditional serving etiquette. You know, handing menus to the women first, serving from the right, clearing from the left. Personally, I’m a fan.
In terms of wine service, I’ve also enjoyed a sommelier protocol that I first noticed at one of my most decadent culinary experiences, a ten course (seemed like 20) meal at the Royal Champange Hotel. At the time I was just starting to learn about wine and sitting down with their confidence damaging wine list was a challenge I was not sure I felt up to.
Linda and I had just come from five days in Burgundy (still the highlight of my wine life) so at minimum I knew I could select a village I had visited and simply order something in my price range. Speaking little French I could not ask specific questions about one winery over another so I just took my chances with a 1990 Chambolle Musigny.
Pointing to it on the menu, I had no idea if I had made an impressive choice, or the wine steward rushed back to the kitchen where he and his colleagues laughed it up at yet another hapless American trying to seem well versed in French wine culture.
He brought the bottle back to the table, showed it to me, then proceeded to leave, opening it at his little wine table.
I anticipated (with nausea) him pouring that first small taste for my inspection where I’d be forced to swirl and sip in front of an expert, kind of like having to tee off in front of Tiger at some Pro/Am thing at Pebble.
But what happened amazed (and relieved) me. The sommelier took the first sip himself and judging it to be in fine shape, then came and poured the wine for us. It was a moment I’ll never forget, not only because it saved my having to judge the wine for myself but just for the wonderful old world protocol of it.
It’s something I’ve only seen done at a few restaurants here in the States since, notably at Osteria Mozza, where they seem to do everything right, and like serving women first, I think this it’s an etiquette that should be used more often.
As more people get into the pleasures of wine drinking both at home and when dining out, why put the pressure on us to evaluate wine (at least in terms of if its condition) when there is a paid expert on staff to do so?
So if its unhip to be old school, that the accepted norm at a trendy restaurant is to give those of us spending the hard earned money we’ll no longer have for retirement a sense that we owe the restaurant a favor for dining there, I’m happy to put on my ascot and be treated with respect any day…
