As many of you have been reading, my magical week in France was full of sublime pleasures. The rolling countryside, the luscious wine, the Mona Lisa.
But the one thing missing from this trip, something that really would have made the journey an unqualified success was the food, or for me, the lack thereof.
It can now be said, not in a derogatory way, not with an ugly American accent but merely the statement of fact, France is no place for a vegetarian. That is not to say they do not sympathize, nor wanted to make it right for me. No, the sad reality is that the concept of foregoing eating meat is truly foreign to them.
This is especially surprising (and frustrating) to go hungry in the land of bread and cheese, which perhaps coincidentally were the only things I did eat during my trip. That and omelettes, at any and every meal.
Note: If you are a Vegan, visit Italy instead.
As I said, people were friendly enough about it. But upon my declaration, “Je suis vegetarian.” I was met with a grimaced face normally reserved for when someone watches a squirrel run across a busy street (a meal I no doubt could have ordered had I eaten small rodents).
The first reaction was always the same (and it’s a fair question) – “Poisson?” Fish? Now, I’ve been known, when my choices are between the grilled vegetable plate with cous cous or a non sentient being like a shrimp or clam, to sometimes opt for the latter – please refrain from your blood throwing, PETA, I love you but I can’t save the world all by myself.
So the one night when I skipped the eggs and agreed to a piece of white fish (and some of you must know where this is going) – I got a pretty big piece of white fish. It was so big in fact that it included things like its head, its tail, all four-thousand tiny bones, and I presume the hook that snared it.
What was missing from said meal was my appetite…
So for you animal lovers headed to Marseille, or Beune or Paris or Tours, might I humbly suggest smuggling as much food as you can in your suitcase. You’ll need it.
Footnote: Ironically, one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life was in France. At a little cafe in Cannes. It was called La Pizza.
Oy vay! Eric, this post gave me flashbacks of my family trips to France! Our oldest daughter, Lea, is a vegetarian, and I mean a ‘real’ vegetarian, only vegetables. No eggs, no cheese, no fish, nothing that could possibly have/had a face at one time. Luckily for us, we have family in France that can accommodate, which covered us part of the time. However, it is true, you are an alien if you do not eat meat. Paris is getting slightly better thought, there are a few restaurants catering to vegetarians, you do need to hunt them down and I am not sure your travel companions will enjoy them as much.
In the Marais, Korcarz on 29 Rue De Rosier is a good Kosher Café/deli with some good Vegi options. It has the added benefit of my step-mom working there, next time you are in Paris stop by and mention my name for a treat
I could really have used this info two weeks ago, Uzi, but I’m most appreciative. The Paris cafe sounds great and I will look it up for sure next trip. Though I’ll also be sure to load up on Nutella crepes just in case! Happy Holidays!
Love your description of the squirrel. I’m an almost-vegetarian–rarely eat meat, and only when it’d disguised by sauce, casserole ingredients, noodles, etc.–and I relate to your post. I do a lot of travel for work and everywhere chefs want to impress with their top dishes, which always include meat. I end up eating the teaspoon of microgreens on top of the slab o’ beef and going away hungry from a 4-course dinner.
Yes, Gretchen, they sure do know how to eat all of earth’s creatures. I’ll never forget my wife adventurously ordering pigeon in France (she’s a meat eater) and even she was unnerved to find that it did not look so far removed from a window ledge.